San Giovanni in Bragora
Monday, 6 March 2023
San Giovanni in Bragora
A very attractive gothic church, where Vivaldi was not baptised (of which more later), with a beautiful interior some fine paintings, as well as Vivaldi’s baptismal record. It is now one of the Chorus churches, so there is an admission fee, but once admitted, paintings can be illuminated by pressing a switch, without having to put a coin in the slot as is the case with so many other churches. The campo feels like it’s off the beaten track but is in fact about 100 metres from the crowded waterfront of the Riva degli Schiavoni.
There’s a “No Photo” sign at the door, but I was very kindly given permission to photograph the interior.
The nave
Nave and south aisle
Cima da Conegliano (1459 - 1518). Baptism of Christ on the high altar
The roof, said to resemble a ship’s hull.
The chapel of St John Elemosinario
Side wall of the chapel of St John Elemosinario. In the lunette, The Transfer of the Body of Saint John Elemosinario by Jacopo Marieschi. Below it, the urn containing the saint’s body.
Some paintings by Vivarini and Cima:
Alvise Vivarini. Christ Blessing (1494). Note the difference between His right and left eyes, and the effect this produces.
Alvise Vivarini. Madonna and Child (c 1485 -1490). Previously attributed to Giovanni Bellini
Alvise Vivarini. The Risen Christ (1497 - 1498)
Cima da Conegliano. St Helena and Constantine at the Sides of the Cross (1504)
And of course the font, where Vivaldi was not in fact baptised.
As explained in the caption below his baptismal document, Vivaldi was baptised at home just after being born as it was feared that he would not survive. Later he was brought to the church where special rites were performed.
Reference:
San GIovanni in Bragora. The Church of Antonio Vivaldi. By Virgiolo Boccardi. Supernova Edizioni (2013). It was on sale in the church for 10€, and can also be purchased online in various languages
